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Urban Pioneers: Apartment Architects of Kings Cross, 1909 to 2000 — 23 October 2010 PDF Print E-mail

Apartment Architects of Kings Cross is a document and exhibition project profiling the contribution by important and well-known architects, from Emil Sodersten and Aaron Bolot to Harry Siedler, to designing Australia’s first high-density urban experiment. But the focus is on revealing exciting less known architects.


The first stage of Urban Pioneers: Apartment Architects of Kings Cross at is a call-out to copy archival material. The second stage is an exhibition, Artists on Architects, proposed for Kings Cross Library in April 2011.

 Urban Pioneers: Apartment Architects of Kings Cross begins with the Royal Commission for the Improvement of the City of Sydney and its Suburbs in 1909 and ends with the battle between residents and Harry Seidler over his contentious Horizon Tower on the old ABC TV Forbes St site, in the early 1990s.


The Royal Commission re-made Sydney along new planning ideas, especially those of the City Beautiful movement and its motto of 'convenience, utility and beauty'. We owe the widening of Elizabeth, Oxford and William streets (with a tunnel under King's Cross) and uniform building heights along William Street and Darlinghurst Road to architect John Sulman’s advocacy.

 

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Halligan & Wilton, Kingsclere, 1912
Claud Hamiton, Savoy, 1919
Claud Hamilton, Regents Court, 1925
Claud Hamilton, Byron Hall, 1929

 

Kingsclere (1912), built in a boom period and designed for the exclusive tenant market, ignited the era of flat construction in Potts Point. But the distinctive tower designed by Halligan and Wilton was a solitary landmark on the skyline until recovery from the Great War in the booming 1920s. Kingsclere’s Edwardian decorum contrasts with new neighbour Byron Hall’s (1929) combing of elements of related architectural styles such as Georgian windows and Classical pediments.


Key overlooked boom period (from 1920 to 1928) architects are: Burcham Clamp (Wintergarden, 1922 in the middle of Darlinghurst Rd and Hampton Court on Bayswater Rd, 1919), Claud Hamilton (Savoy the Darlinghurst ‘city home’ to Dame Eadyth Walker from 1919 until her death in 1937 and Tennyson Hall, Regent’s Court, Lakemount, Wirringula and Kaloola on St Neot Ave and Byron Hall amongst others) and Walter Leslie Nielsen (responsible for Sydney’s finest streetscape along Springfield Avenue with Carisbrook, 1920, Kentwood Court, 1923 and Carinthia 1925 and Franconia on Macleay St). Other significant contributions are by EA Scott, Greene & Scott The Manar (1919), Macleay St and Kurrajong (1927) on Darlinghurst Rd. Most built for tenancy by the emerging upper-middle class and nomadic actors, singers and musicians, especially the legendary artist and music publisher Rex Shaw's St James Flats on Stanley St.

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Burcham Clamp, Wintergarden, 1922

Wintergarden, redrawn 2000

Walter Leslie Nielsen, Carinthia 1929

They also experimented with unique ownership systems. Most of the best loved and best cared for buildings, from Macleay Regis and Franconia in Potts Point to Mont Claire and Beaufort Court in Darlinghurst and Mewdon, Ashdown and Oceania in Elizabeth Bay are Company Title. This distinctive form of shareholding in buildings, contributes greatly to the area’s unique and diverse communities. 

To a limited extent these ideas about vital mixed communities extended into public housing like the winning design for City Council’s model workmen’s dwellings, a 30-flat building in Dowling Street by Peddle, of Peddle, Thorpe and Walker, whose ideas were also influenced by the progressive US-based Church of Christ.


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Dudley Ward, Gowrie Gate, 1938
Dudley Ward, The Wroxton, 1936
Joseland & Gilling, Cahors, plan 1939
Gilling architect, Cahors, 1940

 

Kings Cross is world-renowned for its Art Deco and Modern architecture. Emil Sodersten is the leading Australian architect working in the Art Deco style whose imaginative planning and massing and lavish brickwork earned him 'the contemporary appellation of a modern Horbury Hunt'. Sodersten’s flat buildings include the nine-storey marvel Birtley Towers (1934), Twenty Apartments (1930), Cheddington (1930), Kingsley Hall, (1925-completed 1931), Werrington and Wychbury Towers (1934, side-by-side on Manning St) and the supremely elegant Marlborough Hall (1938) on Ward Ave. Often overlooked is the texture and often thoughtful contribution by the 3 storey walk up flats in this 'middle third' architectural period of the 1930s and 1940s, that contribute much to the diversity of the area.

 

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Emil Sodersten, Kingsley Hall, 1925 with Bob Woodward's El Alamein Fountain, 1961
Emil Sodersten, Wychbury, 1934 Emil Sodersten, Werrington, 1934
Emil Sodersten, Birtley Towers, 1934

 

Others looked to European experiments, like Dudley Ward’s influential buildings The Wroxton (1936, Roslyn Gardens) and Gowrie Gate (1938, Macleay Street) that picked up on innovations in public housing in Germany and Holland and John R. Brogan and William Crowle’s Wyldefel Gardens (1936) with its stepped communal gardens down a hillside, is based on a housing scheme outside of Oberammergau in Germany. Some of these innovators have “dropped between the cracks” says architectural historian Charles Pickett. But Charles Pickett and Caroline Butler-Bowden’s ground-breaking exhibition and book, Homes in the Sky: Apartment Living in Australia (2007), did much to redress these successful transformations.

After the second World War another wave of innovative and often émigré artists make their contribution, and in the 1950s and 1960s names like Douglas Forsythe Evans, Theodore Fry, Hugo Stossel and Harry Seidler take over from Crane & Scott and Sodersten.

 

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Aaron Bolot, 17 Wylde St, 1951
Hugo Stossel, St Ursula's, 1951
Harry Seidler, Ithaca Gardens, 1960
Stewart Murray, Deepdene, 1971


The visual impact and harmony of this dense array of buildings owes much to the area’s distinctive topography and the overlay of land grants and subdivision patterns on the area: a sandstone ridge top which gradually slopes to the North and drops sharply to the east. Macleay St was laid out in the 1820s along the ridge with land grants to both sides. The subdivisions, beginning with the Macleay Estate in 1861, are seen today in the width of building frontages.

 

William Street was widened in 1916 and Darlinghurst Road became chic, but the final subdivisions and building didn’t start until after the Great War. Thanks to John Sulman Darlinghurst Rd remains an intact inter-war heritage streetscape of predominantly 3-storey City Beautiful buildings.

 

Garden Island’s expansion post-war saw Macleay St extended at Wylde St, finally linking the toffs of the point to Woolloomooloo wharves. Until recently the area was well served with public transport: trams then bus services moved freely around 20 metres wide Darlinghurst Rd and Macleay Street to William Street (and the legendary 311 route) and then Sydney CBD. In Darlinghurst the local 389 bus route follows the old tramline. Most other roads with distinctive flat developments are elegantly wide: Greenknowe Ave, Roslyn Gardens and Ward Ave, Elizabeth Bay Rd and Craigend St, Victoria St and Challis Ave. The railway extension then Eastern Distributor and, finally, the notorious road closures and obstructions for the Cross City Tunnel fragmented and congested many points in the area.

 

Another cautionary lesson is that scale is the key to successful urban areas. Tower type development, from the mid-1990s contributed to a loss of scale. True to form, Seidler’s 43-storey Horizon Tower made a statement by casting its legendary sundial shadow over Darlingurst. But most of Seidler’s buildings are conforming and widely accepted from his earliest residential design Ithaca Gardens in 1960, to Ercildoune (1965), Victoria Point, Aquarius (former Florida Tower Hotel, 1965) and 50 Roslyn Gardens. The commercial success of Horizon Tower and its gated community ushered in the era of architect or designer “branded” developments.

 

Shadowing and bulkiness has affected the streetscape of Macleay St where the Landmark Hotel and Rockwall apartments, between Manning Street and Tusculum Ave, now dominate (reaching a height of 70 metres.) On the eastern side of Macleay St between Fitzroy Gardens and Wylde St, the built scale is from two to twelve storeys (9 to 36 metres). On the western side of Macleay Street, 9-storey flat buildings are randomly interspersed with 2-storey commercial/retail buildings plus the odd recent 20 storey numbers (a range from 8 to 70 metres). This happened when hotels were re-zoned to residential giving a windfall. Darlinghurst Road, because of its sub-division into small narrow lots, has retained its unique streetscape.

 

Kings Cross has always thrived on co-existence and change but keeps its high and low character.
With thanks to Anne Higham at the Institute of Architects and the Art Deco Society NSW and local architects.

 

About the heritage of your building
City of Sydney Archives: www.cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au, NSW Heritage Office: www.heritage.nsw.gov.au
Art Deco Society of NSW: http://welcome.to/artdeconsw, Twentieth Century Heritage Society of NSW: www.twentieth.org.au

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Harry Seidler, Horizon Apartments, 1998


 

 
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